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Ubud

ottokallin
Nov 18, 2016
3 min read

I am driving down the small but busy main street of Ubud, Bali’s spiritual Mecca.

Ever since I decided to go to Bali people have told me I have to come see this place. So today I joined the daily flood of tourists on their pilgrimage towards this tiny town at the foot of mount Batur. Mostly known for its meditation centers, Ubud is where soul sick westerners come seeking peace of mind in the stillness of some yoga studio. If there is some to be found I have no idea, I did no yoga here.

Instead I found a parking space for Old Faithful in the shadow of a fig tree and took a walk down the main thoroughfare. I could feel the pavements heat through the soles of my shoes as I walk down streets filled with trendy clothing stores, art vendors, curiosity cabinets and souvenir shops and of course, the obligatory free roaming chickens.

I find a store selling traditional Indonesian masks, another one with didgeridoos and hangdrums. All very beautiful but also very expensive, after Bali standards. I see signs pointing out the way to Ubud’s Sacred Monkey Forest but I save that for tomorrow.

I walk down empty backstreets where children play games on their way home from school. Shrines with newly lit offerings stand at every doorway and street corner. This is a spiritual place alright, but I do not think it is the kind you can buy and bring back home with you. Here spirituality it is something they practice every day. It is the warm glow of peace within that they keep alive by feeding it their attention. The attention of a human mind is the most valuable resource in the world… I want to take a moment to thank you all for giving me your attention by reading this blog.

You are much appreciated.

You can get a place to stay in Ubud for about 150 000 Rupiah a night (Around 9€, and that is without ever bargaining) This is the view from the beautiful Banana Homastay where I spent my first nights here.

After I had my accommodation sorted out I went out exploring for a day and found some quite amazing things, like the statue of Arjun. They make it really hard to drive here by putting such epic pieces of art in the middle of all main thoroughfares.

This really is an astoundingly beautiful place. Here is a temple, a café and a home. Can you guess which one is which?

There is so many artists in this town that they even decorate their alleys with it.

But as interesting as this place is I would not come here to do yoga. The traffic is crazy during the days and the smell of exhaust is thick in the air. At night however, this becomes a different place entirely.

After the dark has settled and the tourists gone home the streets are almost empty. I took a drive around the country side at midnight and stumbled on a mysterious Hindu ritual. Hundreds of people with a white handkerchiefs tied around their forehead were gathered at one of the large temple sites, music was playing inside but I was denied access due to being obviously foreign. Though I do not begrudge them for keeping the sanctity of rituals. Ten years ago their island did not have half the visitors it has today and now they tolerate us as a part of their every day life.

But standing outside listening I can not say I wasn’t curious.